My love story with the Amazon rainforest begins in 1998 at the Xixuau-Xiparina Reserve. Located 450km north west of Manaus, on the confluences of the Xixuau and Xiparina creeks and the Jauperi River, the Reserve sits on the last remaining 30% of Amazonian forest that is totally undamaged by human activity. Almost by chance, I received the mission to accompany a photographer, as an assistant, to capture images of a harpy eagle (Harpia harpyja) in its nest. As our boat sailed for days, my imagination flew, and I tried to understand what awaited me in these unknown lands.
The reserve is under the management and protection of a Brazilian NGO, the Amazon Association (AA), formed by and for the benefit of the native inhabitants of the region. When we arrived, we were warmly received by Chris Clark, a scotsman in love with the Amazon. He married Artemisia, a local woman, and now lives on a strip of river bank with her family.
After spending several days hiking and sleeping in hammocks deep in the jungle, we finally found the world’s largest and most powerful birds, the harpy eagle. The expedition definitely did not disappoint. The wildlife encounters we had, the thrill of hiking, the humidity and muddy, the sensation of swimming in the river and the stunning environment, all made it one of the best trips of my life.
Sure enough, an Amazonian expedition might not be for everyone. There are those who prefer to travel independently, or those who’d rather travel by cruise. For those who are selecting a trekking expedition, this might help you make your decision.
Amazon Tour vs Pico da Neblina Expedition
They are worlds apart. If you’re worried about comfort, you’ll be glad to know an Amazon tour in a jungle lodge is much easy than a rainforest expedition, Amazon Emotions’ Private Refuge accommodates a maximum of 8 guests and only hosts one booking at a time to ensure each of our guests has our full attention. This way, we can move with agility, interact with local people, enjoy exclusive activities and every place we visit in-depth.
On our trekking to Pico da Neblina Expedition, you’ll explore some of the most remote and pristine places in the Brazilian Amazon, combining different kinds of lodging and activities, and meeting the Yanomami, the largest indigenous tribe living in relative isolation in the Amazon Basin, have for millennia occupied a vast stretch of tropical rainforest in northern Brazil and southern Venezuela. Of the estimated 40,000 Yanomami, around two-thirds live in Brazil, where a landmark presidential decree in 1992 recognized them as rightful owners of a reserve the size of Portugal in two northern states, Roraima and Amazonas.
One does not just rock up to Pico da Neblina Expedition from a tour agency sign posted on a bulletin board of a hostel. And that’s not just because the destination is remote, which it certainly is. This tallest mountain in Brazil (at 9,822 feet) lies deep in the northern Amazon on the border of Venezuela in the Imeri mountain range. Manaus, the closest big city, is a not-exactly-insignificant 525 miles away, and the nearest (by “nearest”, we’re talking a two hour drive and six hour boat trip) village is Sao Gabriel da Cachoeira. Usually we have established departure dates for groups but is also possible to select your own dates on demand for private expeditions. The fitness demanded for the expedition is high. We keep our group size to a maximum of 10 guests so that we can move with agility and enjoy every place we visit in depth.
Pico da Neblina had not usually been on most travellers’ radar unless they happened to be a serious mountaineer—but the thriving culture here is changing all that. And though the mountain had been closed to all tourists for the past 20 years, it finally opened up again in March 2022 under new rules and a whole new conscientious—and 100% indigenously-owned—management. This time, all decisions regarding expeditions are being made by the Yanomami.
The Yanomami have lived at Pico da Neblina—which they call Yaripo, meaning “where winds cross”—for thousands of years. To them, the mountain is a sacred space, and they believe that the forest is a living entity with complex cosmological dynamics. They call their environment urihi, or “the forest-land,” which to them is not an inert space, but an alive being integrated in an exchange of humans and non-humans. Now, the Yanomami are staking their claim on their territory by instituting ecotourism—tourism centered on minimizing environmental impacts and fairly distributing earnings to the local community.
The tribal members have organized to become the guides, porters, boat pilots, boat hands, and cooks, and they have set up their associations, AYRCA and Kumirayoma, to administer the business. The re-opening of tourism here will be much more respectful to the profound indigenous culture of the region. Ecotourism in Yaripo is a promising initiative from a financial perspective, necessary in terms of territorial protection, and an ideal model for cultural empowerment. The reopening of Pico de Neblina is being celebrated worldwide as one of the best current examples of how to run indigenous tourism successfully and respectfully.
Here’s the story behind this remote mountain, plus how to climb the next cool peak without the Everest crowds.
Safety
Travellers who are joining any Amazon Emotions’ experience should know that due to safety reasons, guests are asked to follow behind the expedition leader/guide at all times. That said, for those who are worried about safety, rest assured that safety is the priority of our rainforest expeditions. Plenty of precautions are taken by the team to make sure the trip goes smoothly.
What to expect when climbing Pico da Neblina, AKA Yaripo
Yaripo is definitely the new cool mountain to hike. But spots are incredibly limited (Amazon Emotions is authorized to book one expedition per month of a max of 10 climbers per group). Access and time might be the biggest challenges here. After actually getting to the mountain (consisting of a couple hour plane ride from Manaus, then the two hour drive and another six hours by boat), the expedition is a strenuous physical activity and has been designed for hikers who have at least some experience with altitude.
Climbers will ascend four to 8 hours per day during a 10-day trek (if weather cooperates), on moderate to very steep grades. It never requires full-on mountain climbing equipment of crampons and ropes, but the gradient can get pretty intense in places. It can be blistering hot in the dense forest at the base of the mountain at around 300 feet above sea level, yet a mere 15 degrees Fahrenheit at the summit, some 9,000 feet later. High winds (remember Yaripo means “where winds cross”), heavy rains, and limited visibility due to fog and mist are common. After all, the Portuguese name roughly translates to “foggy peak”—which makes sense, because this mountain is not only shrouded in myth but also in dense clouds most of the time. That means weather days are added into the itinerary to increase the chance of summiting.
It’s not all heavy, though. On the slopes, rare endemic plant species of epiphytes, orchids, and bromeliads can be found, and down below at the base, rivers of black water contrast with beaches of white sand. Tourism infrastructure is basic (this is no highly developed Everest or Kilimanjaro, or a cultural trip to Papua New Guinea), but this trip is authentic. Every porter, guide, cook, driver—they will all be Yanomami, who are excited to share their mountain with foreigners now that they’re doing so in a respectful way.
This is definitely now on my bucket list, but how on earth do I arrange this trip?
Simple answer? You don’t do the planning. Everything here is hyper-controlled to avoid the mistakes of past tourism attempts. I’m very proud to say that Amazon Emotions is one tour operator currently authorized to work in the region. Click here to know more details about our Pico da Neblina Expedition here: https://amazonemotions.com/tour/pico-da-neblina-expedition/
